Sunday, June 18, 2006

'Keralah!' (Part I: Munnar)


Two full days have passed since my return from 'God's own country' and I'm still dizzy with the experiences I had there. After several years my family took a much awaited and well-deserved vacation...to be in that hallowed land with my parents and sister was the ideal setting for a treasure trove of memories...

You know, seeing Mumbai from the window of an aeroplane always makes me feel a little sad...it's mostly the stark ugliness of the countless slums that spread like cancerous tissue in the city. All it makes me think about is how urbanization happens at a terrible cost and that our so called development is always at war with mother nature. In sharp contrast was the exhilaration I felt when I saw the impossible greenery of Kochi as my plane made it's gradual descent towards that city. Even while I was in Kochi (just a day and night) I kept marvelling at how spread out the city was, with its criss-crossing water- bodies and how green it was in comparison with Mumbai. I mean, one did find some garish and ghastly architecture every now and then, along with the modern steel and glass shopping mall structures, but by and large there were still a lot more trees in that city than in most other metros that I've seen.

Our stay in Kochi was short (just a day and night), but made very pleasant by the staff of the small but charming hotel we stayed in...an establishment by the name of Lotus 8, which is very close to the airport. If you're even in Kochi for a very short stay or a layover and you want accommodation which is reasonably priced and qualitatively satisfying, Lotus 8 will be just what you need. The food is pretty good...especially the Kerala style breakfasts (go for appams with stew!).

The next morning we were introduced to Shaju, the driver of the Scorpio (an ideal vehicle for extended road trips) that was to be at our disposal throughout the trip. Early in our interactions with him, Shaju demonstrated his 'demon on wheels' nature with his reckless (although obviously experienced) driving, in spite of my father's diplomatic attempts to persuade him to try and avoid playing 'Let's-cheat-death-one-more-time!' Our first destination, the hill-station of Munnar was a whopping 5600 feet above sea level and Shaju got us there in about 3 hours (I believe it takes 5 if you don't go at breakneck speeds!). This feat was accomplished on considerably steep roads and included a break we took midway when we stopped to take pictures at a beautiful waterfall. Throughout the drive, my spirits rose as we covered more altitude and as I felt the air grow cooler against my face. [Give me cold weather any day...if there is one thing I have a serious objection to, it is the feeling of perspiration seeping through one's clothing and eventually leaving its sour smell on its victim...it's something one has to experience abundantly in Mumbai (deep sigh).] When we entered Munnar and I saw acre upon acre of the TATA Tea gardens spreading their glorious blankets on every mountainside, I knew I was very close to heaven...

If Mussourie (apparently called "Queen of the Hills") ever got a good look at Munnar, she would abdicate without a single thought. Munnar just takes your breath away. Endless mountains, rolling tea gardens, thick forests with cloud-kissing treetops, the bluest skies you can imagine, the most vibrant flowers...I could cry (seriously!). To top it all, Munnar has a population of only 25,000, most of which is in the tea garden labourer's community or else working in the various resorts and hotels of that place. Moreover, it is literally guaranteed never to lose its greenery because of the interests of the tea barons who literally own most of its hills and look after them most diligently.

Our resort in Munnar, Blackberry Hills, turned out to have the finest view of the Munnar valley, out of all the other resorts in the place. This was no surprise because it occupies literally an intire hillside. One stays in quaint cottage-like accommodations which are arranged in a descending fashion so you really have to WALK to reach different points in the resort...but You wouldn't find me complaining! The experience of clouds drifting past my face, the sensuous nip in the air and the burst of colour that came with all the flowers that grow in that hallowed land was just what I needed (apart from the fact that even uphill climbs did not make me sweat the way I can sweat by just standing in hot and humid places!). Not a single hotel in Munnar has even a fan...you just don't need it in a place which makes you snuggle under your covers on summer nights! :) GOD I love that place!

In the two days that we spent in Munnar we visited the town (which you can literally cover on foot, in about 30 minutes!), Hydel Park (sadly damaged by earlier rains, but hopefully soon to redeem its horticultural splendour), Echo Point and Matupetty Dam (where we had the most glorious speedboat ride in a lake of the most pristine blue your mind can conjure). Even when the sun shone fiercely, the wind was cold...for a Mumbaikar it was like an illusion! Munnar is also the site for an interesting project of the Indian Government, which has imported cows from Switzerland for some hi-fi dairy project. We were lucky to spot some of the beautiful bovines grazing on lush green hillsides, as Shaju sped through mountain paths. They returned our excited scrutiny with the solemn expressions that only cows can achieve.

I could just go on and on about my experiences, but I'll just end by saying this:

"Clouds gambolled in turquoise heavens,
The wind laughed in lofty trees.
Sunshine sparkled on crystal waters,
And my heart sang to the Hills of Munnar"

I truly hope you see Her someday! God Bless!

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